Poás Crater to National Theatre: Eight Hours in Costa Rica

One glance at Poás volcano’s camera feed depicting a crater resembling an otherworldly scene in a sci-fi film and suddenly my itinerary included a 10-hour pit stop at SJO airport. Costa Rica with that half-day layover wooed me and I was thoroughly enchanted. My Central America travel plans had been set. I had a detailed itinerary for Guatemala with a few days’ stay in Panama in place. I was ready for my adventure. As research for my trip was underway, Costa Rica kept popping up everywhere.

Curious, I went down a rabbit hole, and time and time again, I felt drawn to Poás and Arenal volcanoes. Hankering for my maiden close-up glimpse of an active volcanic crater and discovering that Poás was far but fairly accessible from the airport in Alajuela province, I was intrigued. I chanced upon the camera over the Poás crater that refreshes images every 5 seconds on Universidad Nacional de Costa Rica’s website. Instantly hooked by the lure of nature’s majesty, I tweaked my travel plans to include a layover in Costa Rica long enough to leave the airport and indulge in the region’s myriad offerings.

The Grandeur of Poás Volcano:

This volcano was the driving force behind my decision to stop over in Costa Rica. The main active volcanic crater is highly accessible. One can drive to the visitor centre and a short walk from the parking area leads right up to the crater, which is easily visible beyond safety rails. This crater is one of the widest in the world and sprawls as far as the eyes can see. Seeing such vastness was a compelling and a humbling experience. The crater is known for being shrouded on and off in cloud cover due to elevation and other weather phenomena, sometimes resulting in zero visibility. But with Mother Nature’s generosity and clear skies, I got a bird’s-eye view of Laguna Caliente in the crater – one of the most acidic lagoons in the world, which on this day was a grayish green. Its colour varies with atmospheric conditions.

The massive park also features a wide array of tropical flora and fauna and a second crater lake. Laguna Botos or Botos Lagoon, in an extinct crater, is a gorgeous turquoise lagoon whose brilliant hues were a bonus sight and reminiscent of the resplendent Rocky Mountains’ Moraine Lake and Lake Louise back in Canada.

Poás volcano at an altitude of 2708m is significantly higher than the area around the SJO airport, as evidenced by the temperature drop on the drive up to the crater. A light jacket is recommended for visitors from warmer climes. The visitor groups I met were primarily from Honduras, Nicaragua, and Ecuador, although I met a couple of visitors from further afield – France and Sweden. One group mentioned finding the pre-registration on SINAC Online Reservations system a little challenging. It came into effect along with limiting the number of visitors daily in 2018 after major explosive volcanic activity posed a threat to the surrounding areas. It requires some patience, but I am in favour of the reservation system, as it demonstrates a commitment to visitor safety.  

The Richly Curated Museo Del Jade:

The drive from the park to Museo Del Jade in downtown San José is dotted with coffee plantations on verdant hills and lush greenery greets one from all directions. With its unassuming façade, Museo Del Jade or Jade Museum surprises visitors on stepping inside with its extensive collection of artifacts. It exhibits pre-Columbian jade pieces featuring local animism and other pieces made of ceramic, stucco, slate, and so on dating as far back as 500BCE. It houses pre-Columbian clothing, accessories, musical instruments, etc. This well-curated museum with its atmosphere of gravitas spread over five floors is absolutely worth a visit.  

The Pulsating San José Urban Core:

Afterwards, I had just enough time for a quick gander through San José’s bustling Plaza de la Cultura packed with vendors, folks shuttling between places, and couples and families enjoying an evening out. Arguably, the most prominent landmark in the plaza is the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica or the National Theatre of Costa Rica – a stunning edifice showcasing 19^th century neoclassical architecture. I wish I had had the time to watch a performance there or to visit the nearby Pre-Columbian Gold Museum and Jaime Solera Bennett Numismatic Museum. However, such missed opportunities are bittersweet, as they leave the door open to the possibility of a future visit.

The Pura Vida Ethos of the Locals:

My interactions with the locals, although brief in light of my limited time there, were largely very pleasant. Costa Ricans came across as warm and friendly, with a remarkable willingness to help. Even a local law enforcement officer in a busy establishment, having noticed a foreigner, approached me and offered a quick safety tip. It was reassuring to note proactive monitoring of public safety in a busy downtown area.

Many foreign travel blogs recommend tourists completely bypass San José when visiting Costa Rica. While the country undeniably offers numerous pristine nature-based activities farther away, San José holds its own with its rich museum and historic monument offerings and an opportunity to see daily local life in action. Like in any busy city, all one needs is situational awareness, basic safety precautions, and an open mind.

The Lure of Costa Rica for All Travel Types:

I experienced the ethereal majesty of Poás volcano’s enormous active crater, the shimmering hues of Laguna Botos, the richly preserved pre-Columbian artifacts at Museo Del Jade, the splendor of historic architecture in downtown San José, and the Pura Vida ethos of the locals on a half-day layover. Indeed, with my short visit, I have barely scratched the surface. Perhaps, one day I can return and explore more of this welcoming and diverse country. Whether a short stop like mine or a multi-day trip to Arenal Volcano, Monteverde Cloud Forest, or Manuel Antonio National Park, Costa Rica has an abundance of nature, biodiversity, adventurous activities, history, and above all, spirit to satisfy all travel types.

About the Author:

Tanya Goyal is a Canada-based independent writer and narrative analyst focusing on the intersection of travel, cultural identity, and storytelling. Read her latest work at: https://tanyagoyal.carrd.co/

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